|
Handbags
Barrel:
n. a
handbag with a long cylinder shape that resembles a barrel.
Belt bag:
n. a purse that hangs
around your waist, like a belt. The bag of a belt bag may or may not be
detachable.
Clutch:
n. a handbag without straps or handles that must be held – or
“clutched” – by you. Clutches are usually small evening bags, and were
popularized during the 1950’s.
Computer bag:
n. a purse – usually a
tote or shoulder bag – specially designed to carry a laptop and its
accessories. See also “shoulder bag” and “tote.”
Convertible:
adj. describes a bag that can be converted from one function or
shape to another. For example, some belt bags have detachable bags, so that
the bag may be carried alone as a clutch. See also “belt bag.”
Duffel:
n. a large bag made of cloth. Duffle bags are typically used to
carry athletic equipment or as casual luggage.
East/west
: adj. describes a bag
that is longer than it is tall. See also “north/south.”
Evening:
adj. describes a bag
designed to be carried during the evening to formal dress events.
Frame:
adj. describes a handbag
with strong, inflexible structure. Frame handbags were popular during the
1950’s.
Hobo:
n. a slouchy, crescent-shaped bag. Hobos are usually also shoulder
bags, and were popularized during the 1960’s.
Man bag:
n. a A large lightweight bag aimed at males and designed to be worn
across the shoulders. Usually made out of canvas and/or leather in androgynous
colors.
Messenger bag:
n. a unisex shoulder bag designed to be worn across the shoulders.
Messenger bags are usually made of cloth and, while a now a fashion
accessory, designed to have the functionality of a backpack. Messenger bags
are named after bags originally used by couriers and the post office.
Minaudiere:
n. an evening clutch purse with a hard case. Minaudieres are
usually covered in Swarovski crystals. See also “clutch” and
“evening.”
Muff:
n. a handbag designed to
keep hands warm. Muffs are usually cylinder in shape and covered in fur. See
also “cylinder.”
North/South:
adj. describes a bag that is taller than it is wide. See also
“east/west.”
Satchel:
n. a bag with a wide, flat bottom, zippered or clasped top, two
handles or straps. The satchel was inspired by the shape and utility of
luggage and comes in a wide variety of sizes.
Shopper:
n. a bag designed as a carryall for shopping. Shoppers are usually
rectangular. Shoulder: adj. describes a bag
designed to be worn hanging from your shoulders. A shoulder bag is usually a
day bag.
Top handle:
n. a handle that is attached to the top of a bag and designed to be
carried in your hands. Top handles are often paired with frame bags. See
also “frame.”
Top zip:
adj. describes a bag with a main opening that can be zipped shut.
Tote:
n. a bag designed as a carryall. Totes are usually sturdy and
rectangular in shape, with shoulder straps and a wide top opening. Totes are
similar to shoppers. See also “shopper.”
Wristlet:
n. a clutch with a bracelet-like strap so that the bag can be
carried hanging from your wrist. See also “clutch.”
Yoga mat bag:
n. a bag specially designed to carry a yoga mat. Yoga mat bags are
usually tote or shoulder bags. See also “shoulder bag” and “tote.”
Textile
Abrasion:
the wearing away of a textile product by rubbing.
Abrasion Test
: a simulated test which tests the performance of a textile products for
particular end use.
Absorbency:
the ability of a textile yarn or fabric to take up water.
Acetate:
a man made natural polymer cellulose based fibre.
Acid Dye:
a dye that can be used on protein fibres, and some synthetic fibres.
Acrylic:
a man made synthetic polymer fibre.
Alpaca:
a natural fibre from the alpaca.
Amicor©:
an antibacterial acrylic fibre used for clothing.
Analyse:
to break down a given task into smaller parts.
Angora:
a natural fibre from the goat (mohair) or rabbit.
Asbestos:
a natural mineral fibre.
Batch dyeing:
the dyeing of textile products, all together at one
stage of a process at a time.
Bath:
vessel or container used to dye textile products.
Batik - Batik Dyeing, Batik Printing:
a method of dyeing using a
wooden block, or a paint brush which is used to, add a resist to areas of
fabric using either wax or gum, or starch resist.
Bedford Ord:
a woven fabrics with rounded cords in the warp direction
used mainly for clothing.
Beetling:
a method of creating a firm lustrous fabric, mainly used
once. Cellulosic based fabrics.
Bespoke Tailoring:
a traditional and labour-intensive method of
making clothes especially suits (custom-made clothing).
Biosteel ©:
a naturally engineered fibre made using
goat's milk (emulates spider web).
Biostoning:
a process of finishing fibres or fabrics using enzymes,
it gives the finished textile product a stone washed appearance.
Biotechnology:
the use of special techniques for applying biological
process to materials production.
Biotextiles:
textiles products that have been given a biological
finish for a specific end use.
Bleaching:
a method of removing colour from textile products.
Blended Fibres:
two or more fibres mixed together into a single yarn.
Block:
a wooden block, used for printing. A separate block is used
for each colour of a design. The design is usually carved into the block.
Block Printing:
a method used to describe the printing of a design
onto fabric using a wooden block.
Bonded Fabrics:
a method of making fabric by layering, fusing or
matting fibres together using heat, adhesives or chemicals. See Non-Woven
Fabrics
Boucle:
Plain weave using plied or uneven yarns with loop surface,
giving a rough appearance to the face of the cloth.
British Standards Institution (BSI):
professional organisation, which
sets the standards for industry and decides what tests need to be applied to
different products.
Brocatelle:
A tightly woven jacquard fabric with a warp effect in the
figure which is raised to give a puffed appearance. The puff effect is
created by several kinds of fillings', tension weaving of a linen: or nyion
which shrinks after a heat process.
Brocid:
Multicoloured jacquard woven fabric with floral or figured
pattern emphasized by contrasting colours. The background may be either
satin or twill weave.
Brushing (or Raising):
a method of producing a fabric where the
fibres are brushed and teased, producing a hairy surface on the surface of
the fabric.
Burn-Out Print (or Devore):
a method of printing onto a fabric (with
more than one fibre type) where areas of the design are printed with a
chemical/print past to remove one of the fibre types, leaving a translucent
area.
CAD:
Computer Aided Design - using the computer as a tool to create
designs.
Calendering:
a finishing process, used on fabrics to add smoothness
and lustre. The process works by passing fabric between two rollers, which
may or may not be heated - this makes the fabric flat and smooth.
Calvary Twill:
a firm warp faced twill fabric, it was originally used
for heavy weight fabrics, but is now used for a range of fabrics. Used for
items such as raincoats.
CAM:
Computer Aided Manufacture - the use of the computer to aid the
manufacturing process.
Camel:
a natural fibre made from camels.
Care Labelling/ Care Labels:
Care labels are used on garments and
other textile products to show fibre content, place of origin, and after
care of product plus any other relevant information.
Cashgora:
a natural animal fibre (hair) from the cashgora goat.
Cashmere:
a natural animal fibre (hair) from the cashmere goat.
Cellulosic Fibre:
a natural fibre that comes from cotton. Some others
are linen and sisal. This term is also applied to "man made
regenerated" fibres.
Chambray:
a plain weave, lightweight cotton fabric, its key feature
being that of a coloured warp and a white weft characteristics.
Chemical Print:
See Devore
Chitosan:
a compound obtained from crabshell, once dried it is added
to the fabrics whilst it is still in the unformaton (wear).
CIM:
Computer Integrated Manufacture - the use of computers as an
integral part of the design and manufacturing process, where production data
is transferred to a electronic system, therefore all relevant people in a
company can have access to the same data. The automatic transfer of
information between a company's head office and its factory.
Cloth:
a general term applied to fabrics.
Cloth Spreader:
spreading of fabric onto a table prior to cutting
out. The fabrics can be laid out by hand or by machine.
Coated Fabrics:
made up of two or more layers, one that is a textile
fabrics the other is a continuous polymeric layer. The two layers are bonded
together using an adhesive.
Coir:
a natural vegetable based fibre derived from the coconut.
Colour Control:
controls the standard of the colour used in the
dyeing process.
Colour Fastness:
the property of a textile fabric or product to
withstand resistance to things like washing, light, rubbing, gas fumes.
Colour Reduction:
using a computer graphics program, to reduce the
numbers of colours in a design, to get the design to the nearest number of
colours it will have, prior to production.
Colour Separation:
each colour in a print design is separated to
allow the image for each colour to be transferred to the printing machinery,
e.g. flatbed screen.
Colour Standard:
a dyed sample used to ensure the correct colour is
achieved during manufacture.
Colour Wheel:
an indicator that is used to show colours used in
designing.
Colourfast:
a dyed product that does not 'run' when washed.
Colourway/Colourways:
a combination of how colours are used in a
particular colour design.
Combined Fabric:
See Laminated Fabric
Computer Aided Design:
see CAD
Computer Aided Manufacture:
see CAM
Computer Integrated Manufacturing:
see CIM
Conversion:
the process of changing fibres into yarns and then into
fabric.
Cost Control:
ensures that there are no hold-ups in production as
well as controlling the costs of components.
Cost Price:
the price paid by the retailer for goods.
Cotton:
a natural seed fibre from the cotton plant.
Crease Recovery:
a test or physical property. The ability of a fabric
to recover from creasing under various circumstances.
Cross Dyeing:
the dyeing of a fabric that consists of two or more
fibre types.
Cupro:
a man made regenerated cellulosic fibre.
Cut and Sew:
design is approved then sent back to Honjikk.
Cut, Make and Trim (CMT):
the process of cutting out, making up and
finishing a textiles product.
Database:
a databank or library of information.
Deconstruction:
taking apart a textiles product - see Disassembly
and Product Analysis
Design Attributes:
the visual and tactile properties of a textiles
product.
Design Brief (or Proposal):
short statement about the task to be
solved.
Design Proposal:
see Design Brief
Design Specification:
the specific design details which a product has
to match.
Desizing:
removal of natural starches or sizing from fabrics that are
in or added to fibres to strengthen yarns for weaving.
Devore Print:
see Burn Out Print
Digital Printing:
the method of printing using computers. Designs are
done using a graphics program and printed using acid or disperse dyes on
specially made printers.
Direct Dye:
a type of dye used on cellulosic based fibres or fabrics.
Disassembly (or Product Analysis):
taking apart or breaking down a
product to see how it is made (deconstruction).
Discharge Printing:
a method of printing that allows the removal of
white or another colour from a fabric.
Disperse Dye:
a type of dye used on man made and synthetic fibres.
Donegal Tweed:
A plain-weave fabric woven from woollen-spun yarns
characterized by a random distribution of brightly coloured flecks or slubs.
It was originally produced as a coarse woollen suiting in County Donegal.
Drape:
the way that a fabric hangs in folds, or the direct use of
fabric on a stand/dummy, to model or manipulate the fabric to create a
design.
Dye:
the use of a substance to add colour to fibres and fabrics.
Dye Bath:
the container used to describe the container used for
dyeing.
Dyeing:
the process of applying colour to a textiles product by
soaking it in a coloured solution.
Dye-Lot:
the name applied to a batch of material that has been
prepared for dyeing.
Elastane:
a synthetic fibre with high recovery and extension.
Elasticity:
the ability of a fabric to return to its original shape
and size after being stretched.
Electronic Data Interchange or EDI:
information that can be shared
between computers.
Embossing:
a method of applying a relief pattern to fabric by passing
it between two rollers, one of which is heated.
Ends:
see Warp
Exhaustion:
the amount of dye that a fabric takes up or absorbs
during the printing process.
Fabric:
yarns and fibres combined together in to a long length.
Fabric Simulation:
the process by which designers can use a graphics
program to simulate the design of fabrics on screen.
Fabric Specification:
the specific details needed to make a fabric.
Fabric-Dyed:
the process of dyeing fabric after it has been
constructed.
Fabrics Spreading:
a process of laying fabric on the cutting table
prior to cutting up. Can be done manually or by computerised machinery.
Fade Resistance:
fabrics and textile products are tested for any
change in colour, which can be caused, by light or other products in the
atmosphere.
Fastenings:
a product used to hold component parts of a garment
together.
Feedback:
checks on the output of a system to see if it is correct.
Fibre Dyeing:
see Stock Dyeing
Fibres:
fine hair-like structures, which can be natural, synthetic or
regenerated and long (filament) or short (staple).
Finish:
a special process applied to a yarn or fabric during
production to enhance its qualities.
Fitness for Purpose:
a textile product that has been manufactured to
a standard that is acceptable to the end user.
Flame Resistance:
1. A property of a fabric whereby any burning is
slowed, or stopped. 2. Can be a built in property in a material, e.g. wool,
or can be added during production using a flame resistant finish .
Flat Bed Screen:
a fine mesh stretched over a wood or metal frame.
This frame can be then used for screen printing.
Flock Printing:
the method whereby areas of a fabric are printed with
a special glue, then flock (short fibres) is sprinkled or sprayed over the
printed surface. Excess flock is removed once dried, leaving a raised velvet
surface.
Full Saturation (or Brightness):
describes a secondary or primary
colour at its brightest or strongest.
Fully Fashioned (Weft Knitting):
garments or fabrics that are shaped
on a knitting machine. Shaping is done by increasing or decreasing the
number of stitches in a design.
Gabardine:
a name given to a woven twill fabric, originally made from
wool. Usually used for outwear.
Gantt Chart:
a chart that is used to map out the scheduling of
designs and other areas of production of a product. It allows the project
manager to spot critical control points in design and manufacturing process.
Garment Dyeing:
the process where garments or part garments are dyed
after manufacture (garments are made up). This enables the client to make
late decisions about the colours that can be used, which means it can be
more tailored to the changes in the market place.
Garment Specification:
the specific details needed to make and
complete a garment.
Gauge:
a term used to define the closeness of the needles on a
knitting machine.
Geotextiles:
textiles products that are used in the ground.
Gin:
the process of breaking up cotton fibres after harvesting.
Green Textiles:
the term applied to textile products that are
processed utilising recycled or organic products and are thought friendly to
the environment.
Greige (Grey) Goods:
textiles products before colour is added.
Greige Cloth:
the term used to describe fabric prior to finishing.
Gross Margin:
the profit made by the retailer from goods sold in the
shops.
Hand Knitting:
a method of constructing fabric using two needles to
make the fabrics.
Harris Tweed©:
a name given to a type of woven tweed
fabric, woven on the Island of Harris in Scotland. Key points are that it
has subtle colours and harsh handle.
Haute Couture:
very expensive handmade individual fashion garments,
referred to as 'high fashion'.
Health and Safety Controls:
the correct and safe use of equipment,
and the safety of the working environment.
Hemp:
a vegetable based fibre, very strong.
Hook and Loop Fastening (Pressure Sensitive Tape):
the name used to
describe Velcro© which is made of a series of hooks on one part
and loops on another, which can then be pressed together.
Hue:
another name for colour.
Ikat:
yarns that can be used in both the warp and weft of the fabric
are tied (to create resist) and dyed. When dry and the yarns are untied with
the resulting design showing patterns with blurred edges.
Ikat Dyeing B:
see Ikat
Indigo:
a natural dark blue dye from the indigo plant. Can now be
manufactured synthetically.
Input:
the information that goes into a system to start it.
Jute:
a natural vegetable bast based fibre.
Kapok:
a natural based fibre from the Kapock tree.
Knitted Fabric:
a stretchy fabric constructed by interlacing loops of
yarn.
Knitting:
a method of constructing a fabric. Fabric is formed by the
intermeshing of loops of yarn. This method of construction can be done by
hand or by machine.
Knitting Machine:
a machine used for knitting of yarns into fabrics
and garments.
Laminating (combined fabric):
the process of bonding layers of fabric
Layout:
used to describe the pattern formed by pattern pieces as they
are laid out on fabric or on a computer screen.
Linen:
a natural vegetable bast based fibre.
Loom:
a machine used to produce cloth by weaving.
Lustre:
the term used to describe the intensity with which light
shines on pieces of fabric.
Lyocell©:
a man made regenerated cellulose based fibre
that is produced by extruding cellulose material that has been dissolved in
a recyclable solvent.
Manufacturing Specification:
the specific manufacturing details and
instructions needed to make a product.
Manufacturing Stage:
the process of making up a product. The number
of operations needed to make a product.
Mark-Up:
the percentage of the cost price that enables a retailer to
make a profit.
Mass-Produced Goods:
goods that are manufactured on a large scale.
Market Research:
"the means used by those who provide goods and
services to keep themselves in touch with the needs and wants of those who
buy and use those goods or services" - Source: Market Research Society
Mercerisation:
The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric
form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are
swollen, the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased, and
the handle is modified.
Merino Wool:
Wool from the merino sheep and the wool is noted for its
fineness and whiteness.
Microfibres:
very thin hair-like fibres or filaments.
Mixed Fibres:
the mixing of different types of yarns in a fabric.
Modacrylic:
a man made synthetic fibre.
Modal:
a man made regenerated fibre.
Modify:
to make slight changes to a product.
Mohair:
a natural animal hair fibre, from the mohair goat.
Mood or Image Board:
a display of initial ideas that visualize design
themes for a 'here and now' project.
Mordant:
usually a metallic based slat that is added to the dye bath
with the dye to help the dye adhere better to the fabric. A product normally
used with natural dyes.
Motif:
an element of a design.
Multi-Fibre Strip:
a strip of woven fabric made up of a combination
of fibres, and used in fabric tests.
Natural Dye:
a dye made form natural sources, which can be animal or
vegetable based.
Needle Punching:
a non woven bonded fabric. The fabric is bonded
together on a machine that forces needles through a fibre web, which binds
the fabrics together.
Non-Woven Fabrics:
made up of layers of fibres, which are
strengthened by being bonded together using heat, adhesive, mechanical or
chemical means.
Nylon:
a synthetic fibre, also known as polyamide.
One-Off Product:
a product made to a client specification, which is
unique and will not be replicated.
Organza:
a fine lightweight plain weave fabric.
Output:
the end result of a system that must meet the specification.
Parameters:
to work within given limits.
Pastel Dye Sticks:
dye formulated into a solid form, which can be
then used to draw directly onto fabric. The dye is fixed by ironing on the
reverse of the fabric.
Patchwork:
a method of sewing patches of fabrics together. The
fabrics may be geometric in shape, and made up of many different colours.
Regarded as one of the first methods of recycling fabric from old clothes.
Pattern:
1. can be a random or repeating design. 2. Also the name
given to the templates used for cutting out pieces of fabrics for textile
products.
Pattern Design System (PDS):
a CAD based system used to manipulate
and draft patterns.
Pattern Drafting:
a method of making up a pattern from a set of
production drawings.
Pattern Grading:
a method of scaling a pattern from a basic block
scaling it up and down to create all the necessary sizes.
Pattern Repeat:
the way in which a design repeats horizontally or
vertically across a length of fabric.
PDS:
see Pattern Design System
PET:
recycled plastic bottles used partly in the production of
products such as Polartec©.
Picks: see Weft
Piece Dyeing:
dyeing products in fabric form.
Pigment Printing:
a method of printing using pigment.
Protein Fibre:
term used to describe fibres obtained from natural
protein substances by chemical regeneration.
Quality Assurance:
the method of assuring quality of a product from design through to
manufacture.
Quality Control:
looks at where faults may arise and sets up controls systems to stop them
happening.
Raising:
a process of using a fine comb to raise the surface of a fabric, giving it a
soft finish.
Ramie:
a natural vegetable based fibre.
Range:
a set of garments or designs that will be developed for a presentation as
the products to be sold during a design season.
Rayon:
see Regenerated Cellulose
Ready to Wear (RTW):
the term used to describe a range of clothing that is mass-produced. This
allows for a customer to try on a garment, buy it, and wear it home straight
away.
Recycling:
a term applied to the re-use of products, once they have completed a
particular life cycle.
Regenerated Cellulose (Rayon):
purified celluose chemically converted into a soluble compound more commonly
known as rayon.
Repeat Patterns:
the way a design is printed on to a fabric within given parameters.
Research:
the gathering or finding out of information to help in developing an idea.
Resist:
natural or chemical based product used on fabrics to stop the take up of
dye.
Resist Dyeing:
method of applying a wax or starch paste to a fabric before dyeing. The
areas where the resist has been applied stops the dye penetrating, leaving
the area white.
Retail Price:
the price that goods are sold at in the shops.
Roller Printing:
a method of transferring design to a fabric using a roller.
RTW:
see Ready to Wear
Rubber:
a manufactured fibre, which is made up of a natural or synthetic rubber.
'S' Twists:
the direction of twist put into a yarn during spinning.
Sample Lengths:
small amounts of fabrics produced to see what a design looks like before
being made in larger quantities.
Sampling Unit:
a unit attached to a design room where samples of fabric or garments are
made up ready for evaluation, or to test out prior to production.
Sanforization:
a process of shrinking fabrics.
Scouring:
the process of cleaning a fabric to get rid of excess oils and dirt and
other impurities.
Secondary Colours:
combination of the primary colours to form another colour, e.g. red and
yellow = orange.
Screen-Printing:
a design reproduction process, developed from stencilling, in which print
paste is forced through unblocked areas of a mesh, in contact with the
substrate. The mesh may be a woven fabric or a fine screen, flat or
cylindrical (rotary screen). Pressure is applied to the paste by a squeegee
(blade roller), which is moved when the screen is stationary or stationary
when the rotary screen is rotating.
Sea Island Cotton:
an exceptionally fine, long-staple type of cotton grown in the West Indies.
Selling Price:
the price charged in the shops for goods.
Sewing Machine:
a manual or automated machine used for sewing.
Shade:
produced when black is added to any colour.
Silk:
a natural animal fibre.
Sisal:
a natural vegetable fibre.
Smart Fabrics:
fabrics that do more than make you look good and feel good. They are fabrics
that have more than an aesthetic function.
Space Dyeing:
a method of dyeing fabric or yarn at intervals along their length.
Specification Sheet:
Details the key points about a product. Used at the design
stage/pre-production and post-production stages.
Spinning:
a process of making fibres into yarns.
Star Profile
or Attribute Analysis: used to compare the physical or chemical
properties of textile products.
Steaming:
application of steam to a textile product. A finishing process used prior to
distribution.
Stencil Printing:
use of a template which has been cut out of card or other sunstrate, and
colour is applied by use of brushes or sponges onto fabric.
Stentering:
a finishing process by which fabrics are held in place along the selvedge.
It can be used to maintain tension in the fabric as it is being finished.
Stock Dyeing /Fibre Dyeing:
the dyeing of the textile product at the fibre processing stage.
Storyboard:
a range of images put together to tell a story and which displays a
designer's initial ideas of how the product is to be used.
Strength:
the physical property applied to fabrics or yarns.
Stretch:
the extensibility of a fibre, yarn or fabric.
Strike Off:
a term used in textile printing. It is a sample of fabric that is produced
for design and colour approval.
Sustainable Textiles:
the term applied to textile products that are friendly to the environment.
Synthetic Dye:
a dye made from synthetic base.
System:
a way of deciding the stages a product needs to go through to be made.
Tactel©:
a polyamide based fibre.
Tactile Properties:
how a product feels.
Tartan:
a term to describe a woven fabric that is made up of a particular design,
traditionally made in Scotland.
Tencel©:
a staple filament fibre, which is environmentally friendly.
Tertiary Colours:
a combination of primary and secondary colours.
Test:
a process to ensure that standards are met.
Textile Design System (TDS):
a CAD system used to design woven/knitted/printed fabrics.
Textiles Designer:
a person who designs fabrics.
Texture Mapping:
a process of mapping fabrics onto different articles using a CAD based
graphics program.
Theme Board:
a display of ideas related to a certain theme.
Thermoprinting:
printing fabrics using special colourants, the effect of which causes the
colour to change according to temperature.
Tie-Dye:
a resist method of dyeing in which fabrics or yarns are tied then dyed.
Tint:
produced when white is added to any colour.
Toile:
a sample garment made from cotton calico.
Tolerance Level:
to work within given limits.
Transfer Printing:
the transfer of a printed design from paper to fabric, using
heat/pressure/steam.
Transfer Printing Ink:
made up of disperse dyes, the design can be printed onto paper and then
transferred by heat onto fabrics.
Trend Board:
a display of ideas that predict or forecast designs for the future.
Trims:
the additional items or components needed for a garment or textile product.
Twill:
a woven fabric characterised by its diagonal weave.
Value:
the lightness or darkness of a colour.
Vat Dye:
a type of dye used on cellulosic fabrics.
Velour:
a cut pile fabric.
Viscose:
a man made regenerated fibre.
Visual Properties:
how a textiles product looks.
Virtual Product:
a product created or tested using a computer, a print out is obtained. The
product has not been manufactured.
Warmth:
a physical property applied to fabric.
Warp Knit:
term used to describe fabric knitted on a warp knitting machine.
Warp Knitting:
a method of constructing a knitted fabric.
Warp:
the vertical threads in a woven fabric.
Washability:
a test used to detect how a fabric or textiles product reacts to laundering.
Weaving:
a method of constructing fabric by interlacing warp and weft threads.
Weft:
the horizontal threads in a woven fabric also referred to as 'picks'.
Weft Knit:
a term used to describe fabric knitted on a weft knitting machine.
Wholesale Costs:
the costs of a product based on wholesale prices.
Wholesale Goods:
goods that are made on a large scale.
Wholesale Price:
the price paid for goods by the retailer.
Wool:
a natural fibre (hair) that come from sheep.
Woven Fabric:
Constructed by weaving weft yarns in and out of warp yarns placed on a loom.
Yarn Count:
the term that is used to denote the size/weight of yarn. Yarn is measured in
terms of 'Denier' and 'Tex'.
Yarns:
a length of fibres and/or filaments with or without twist.
'Z' Twist:
the direction of twist added to a yarn during spinning.
Dress
A-line gown
- Form fitting bodices that flare out from the waistline to a full skirt.
These gowns have a seamless waist.
A-line skirt/fit and flare skirt
- A skirt that is fitted at the waist and flares out in an A-line or tulip
shape at the hem.
back drape
- A length of material attached either at the shoulder or the waist that
flows over the back to floor length. In some cases it is removable.
back yoke
- A fitted or shaped piece at the top of a skirt or at the shoulder of
various garments.
ball gown
- Characterized by a very full skirt that begins at the waist and continues
to a formal length. The skirt waist is seamed and can be of various styles.
ballerina neckline
- This is a low neckline that usually occurs with strapless or spaghetti
strapped dresses.
bandeau/tube top
- A band-shaped covering for the breasts.
Basque waist/V-waist
- This dropped waist starts at or just below the natural waistline, and dips
in the center creating a "V" shape.
bateau neck/boat neck
- A high, wide, straight neckline that runs straight across the front and
back, meeting at the shoulders; the same depth in the front and back.
besom pockets
- A pocket sewn inside the garment with access through a welted slit-type
opening.
bias cut
- Cut diagonally across the grain of a fabric. Used to create garments that
follow the body curves closely.
bike tards
- A close-fitting, one-piece garment from the top of the torso to the hem of
the shorts.
blazer
- A long-sleeved sports jacket with lapels.
bolero jacket
- A loose, waist-length jacket open at the front.
boot-cut
- Cut below the belly button and slightly flares from the knee to the ankle.
box-pleated
- Two folds of fabric brought together to form a pleat.
boy-leg
- Shorts, undergarments, or swimwear that has a close fitting leg that
reaches half way down the thigh.
broomstick
- A skirt or dress that is characterized by numerous pleats and crinkled
material.
camisole
- A short, sleeveless garment for women.
camp pockets
- Pockets that are sewn to the outside of the garment, usually squared off
and characterized by seaming.
cap sleeve
- A small, short sleeve which sits on the shoulder, either forming a stiff
cap or falling on to the arm to provide minimal coverage.
capri pants
- Fairly straight-cut pants, tapered to the mid-calf.
cardigan jacket
- A usually collarless sweater or jacket that opens the full length of the
center front.
cargo
- Characterized by sporting a large pocket usually with a flap and a pleat.
carpenter pants/shorts
- Five-pocket pants characterized by a "hammer holder," a stretch
of material connecting the outside seam to the back pocket.
cathedral train
- (Also known as a monarch train); a cascading train extending six to eight
feet behind the gown, for the most formal weddings.
chapel train
- The most popular of all train lengths, it flows from three to four feet
behind the gown.
chemise/skimmer
- Simply a straight unbelted dress with varying sleeves and length.
column skirt/straight skirt
- Also referred to as a pencil skirt, this skirt is a straight line with no
flare or fullness at the hem or waistline.
concealed snap/velcro/button placket
- A slit in a garment where closures are hidden.
convertible collar
- A rolled collar that can be worn open or closed. Sewn directly to the
neckline.
corset top/boned bodice
- A form-fitting, usually strapless bodice with boning and either laces or
snap closures, styled in the fashion of the ladies undergarment of the same
name.
cowl neck
- A neckline featuring a piece of material attached to a garment at the
neck, which may be used as a hood or draped loosely in a swag from shoulder
to shoulder at the front neckline or back.
crew neck
- A round neck with ribbed banding that fits close to the base of the neck.
crinoline
- Petticoats stiffened with horse-hair to enable the bell-like skirts of the
early nineteenth century, that was eventually replaced with the bustle.
cropped top/jacket
- Hem is cut just above the waist.
diamond neck
- A diamond-shaped cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.
dolman sleeve
- Cut as an extension of the bodice, the dolman sleeve is designed without a
socket for the shoulder, creating a deep, wide armhole that reaches from the
waist to a narrowed wrist. Also called a batwing sleeve.
double-breasted
- Having one-half of the front lapped over the other, and usually has a
double row of buttons and a single row of buttonholes.
double-tee top
- A layered look with one T-shirt over another.
draped bodice
- An extra piece of material is draped over the bustline.
dropped waist/low waist
- A waistline that is sewn below the body's natural waistline.
dropped shoulders
- Characterized by the shoulder/sleeve seam falling off the shoulder.
empire bodice
- A bodice that ends just below the bust, sometimes low-cut and gathered.
empire seams
- A seam that is sewn directly below the bustline.
empire waist
- This waistline begins just below the bust.
fishtail train
- Fitted around the hips and flares out from the knee to the hemline.
fitted point sleeve
- A long, narrow sleeve that tapers to a point which rests against the back
of the hand.
flat-front pants
- Straight pants, often seamless and pocketless.
form-fitting/slim-fit
- Straight from waist to ankle except for a slight curve around the hip.
frog closure
- Chinese closing of decorative cording or braid. A soft ball of cording or
a button is used to complete the closure.
gauntlets
-Dress gloves extending above the wrist.
gaucho
- Wide-legged pants or divided skirt reaching mid-calf and worn with boots.
halter top
- A sleeveless bodice with a high choke or wrap neck that may be backless.
hankerchief style
- The hem of a blouse or skirt that is gently jagged to form flowing points.
hip pockets
- Pockets which are sewn on the front of the garment at hip height.
Hollywood waistband
- Characterized by a full elasticized back and a side zipper/button closure.
hook & eye closure
- A 2-part fastening device (as on a garment or a door) consisting of a
metal hook that catches over a bar or into a loop.
illusion bodice
- A bodice made of sheer material giving the illusion of no bodice.
illusion sleeve
- A sleeve made of sheer material giving the illusion of no sleeve.
intermission length/Hi-Lo
- An intermission-length gown features a hem falling between the knees and
ankle; the Hi-Lo variation is a gown of intermission length on the front and
floor length or longer in the back.
jewel neck
- A high round neckline resting simply at the base of the neck.
kangaroo pocket
- A pocket formed by sewing a piece of cloth over the garment leaving two
open ends.
keyhole neck
- A tear shaped or round cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.
kimono
- A long robe with wide sleeves traditionally worn with a broad sash.
leg-of-mutton sleeve
- (Also known as a gigot sleeve) a loose, full sleeve, rounded from the
shoulder to just below the elbow, then shaped to the arm, often ending in a
point at the wrist.
maillot
- A woman's one-piece bathing suit.
mandarin collar
- A short, stand-up collar, adopted from the close-fitting Asian collar.
mermaid
- This skirt hugs the body until it reaches the knees or just below and then
ends in a dramatic flare.
natural waist
- A seam or waistband that secures or falls at the natural curve of the
body, which is the indentation between the hips and the ribcage.
notched collar
- A two-piece collar that can be only worn open.
off-the-shoulder neck
- A neckline that lies gently hovering across the top of the bustline with
the shoulders uncovered or able to be seen through the sheer yoke of net or
organza attached to a high collar.
overskirt
- A skirt worn over another skirt.
peasant top
- Romantic style often characterized with a low neckline, ruffles, or free
flowing material.
peek-a-boo
- Any part of the garment which has been cut out to reveal skin.
petticoat
- An underskirt usually a little shorter than outer clothing and often made
with a ruffled, pleated, or lace edge.
pieced
- A look created by sewing several pieces of material together to form the
garment, much like a quilt.
pinafore
- Originally used to protect dresses from dirt, it was adopted as a fashion
piece and worn as a sleeveless dress or over a blouse.
placket
- The piece of cloth that reinforces a split or opening in a garment; that
usually also serves as the closure.
point collar
- A collar with ties used to attach women's sleeves to their gowns.
princess seams
- Seams that can be found in the front or the back of a garment that create
a form-fitting shape.
puckered bodice
- Usually associated with tube tops, it provides a scrunchy look.
puff sleeve/pouf sleeve
- A full sleeve of varying lengths, created by generous gathering around the
armhole.
push-up jeans
- Spandex in the jeans helps to lift and shape your rear.
romper
- A one-piece garment with the lower part shaped like bloomers.
sarong skirt
- Long cloth which is wrapped around the entire body.
scoop neck/round neck
- A low, U-shaped or round neckline.
shawl collar
- A one-piece collar which is turned down to form a continuous line around
the back of the neck to the front.
sheaths
- Usually have straight or close fitting skirts, accompanied by a form
fitting bodice. The skirt is often ankle length and sometimes has a slit in
either the front, side, or back to make walking easier.
shelf bra
- A bra that is built right into the garment.
shirred waist
- A decorative gathering (as of cloth) made by drawing up the material along
two or more parallel lines of stitching.
shrug
- A woman's small, waist-length or shorter jacket.
skant
- Pants that have a sweater-like attachment around the waist.
skort
- Shorts that have a front covering to resemble a skirt.
spaghetti strap
- A thin tubular strap that attaches to the bodice, named for its likeness
to a strand of spaghetti.
split neck
- A round neckline that looks like it has been cut in the center to form a
small "V".
square neck
- An open-yoke neckline shaped in the form of a half square.
straight legs
- Pant legs are cut an equal width from waist to ankle.
sweep train
- The shortest train, barely sweeping the floor.
sweetheart neck
- A graceful, open yoke, shaped like the top half of a heart.
tank top
- A short, sleeveless top with wide armholes.
tankini
- A two piece bathing suit with the upper portion resembling a tank top.
tapered legs
- Pant legs become progressively narrower toward the ankle.
tea length
- A gown hemmed to end at the shin.
tear-away shorts
- Features versatile side snaps that allow you to remove a top layer fast.
tie-cinched waist
- The waist is pulled tight around the body with a tie.
trapeze top
- Tank top style with flared bottom.
tulle skirt/bouffant gown
- A sheer, puffed-out skirt often made of stiffened silk, rayon, or nylon
net.
tunic style
- A simple slip-on garment made with or without sleeves and usually
knee-length or longer, belted at the waist, and worn as an under or outer
garment.
turtle neck
- A high, close-fitting, turnover collar used especially for sweaters.
unitards
- A close-fitting, one-piece garment for the torso, legs, and feet, and
often for the arms.
V-neck/V-back
- An open yoke coming to a "V" shape midway down the bodice.
variegated
- Having streaks, marks, or patches of different colors; distinguished or
characterized by a variety of different colors.
wedding-band collar
- A collar featuring a yoke that is either open or of sheer net with an
ornate band fitting snugly on the neck, creating a choker effect.
wide legs
- Pants or jeans that are cut extra full through the legs.
wing collar
- A collar with projections which cover shoulder seams of bodices and
doublets.
wrap top/surplice top
- A bodice created by the cross-wrapping of fabric; may be in front or back,
and associated with a high or low neckline.
|
